And here's what it would have looked like on white:
It's not finished - it's just a top - because as I continue to make masks, I will grow it. The mystery, of course, is how all this will turn out - not just this quilt, but our lives.
UPDATE, 7/2 - I've grown this quilt significantly, and written up new, simpler directions. Find the blog post with lots of photos, here. The free revised pattern includes full-size templates. Download it from Dropbox, here (Version 3b, July 2, 2020). If you have any trouble downloading it, email me at firstname.lastname@example.org, and I'll email it to you. Your suggestions, comments, and feedback are welcomed.
Here's one fabrics I used in lots of masks - a purple batik featuring lots of birds:
...And the hexagon I made from a scrap:
Button eyes are optional. Next, masks I made for border collie parents:And its hexagon:
A stylish saw-blade fabric mask:
The condensed version, with button eyes, appears sweet but startled:After making a pile of masked hexagons (most without button eyes) I decided to to socially distance them. I was heavily influenced by lines marked on store floors, and social media photos of kooky/brilliant people wearing hula hoops, pool noodle hats, inner tubes, and even wildly-oversized Burger King crowns, to keep their distance. So I gave some of my hexagon rows protuberances.
Of course, I have hexagons and English Paper Piecing on my mind because my new book was just published, Hexagon Star Quilts: 113 English Paper Pieced Star Patterns to Piece and Applique, available from Amazon (here) and wherever fine quilting books are sold!
HEXAGON FABRICS - Scraps of print fabrics - one side should be at least 4” - plus similar-size scraps of assorted solids for the “faces.”
BAR AND EMBELLISHMENT FABRICS A variety of scraps, especially in shades of grey and black-and-white for the bars. Assorted colors for star points and squares that surround hexagons.
BACKGROUND FABRIC Black: 2 yards. White: 2 yards or, if you don’t mind a seam, 1 yard cut in half vertically, with one half stitched above the other.
BORDER FABRIC: 1 yard if you don’t mind a seam and the print doesn’t have to be accurately matched. Buy 2 yards if it’s a print with a motif that needs to be matched and/or you don’t want a seam. Top and bottom borders are cut about 4.5” x 67” wide; the two side borders are cut about 3” x 69” long.
SEWING THREAD For hand or machine sewing.
GLUE STICK or PEN To “baste” fabric around cardstock or interfacing templates. Any washable non-permanent glue, like Elmer’s purple stuff in the photo, is fine. Glue pens - far right - cost more, but their narrow tip creates less mess. Alternatively, stitch-baste.
CARDSTOCK The kind that goes through a printer; or, scraps like file folders.
BATTING and BACKING Slightly bigger than your top. This finished quilt is 67” x 76”.
Hand stitchers only:HAND-SEWING NEEDLES EPPers favor Hemmings Size 11 Milliners, but you can start out with any slender, long small-eyed needle.
THREAD CONDITIONER Option, to reduce spontaneous thread knotting.
Machine stitchers only:DÉCOR BOND PELLON INTERFACING 809 Option. I love it for machine EPP. This inexpensive medium-weight interfacing has fusible glue on one side. It’s easy to fold fabric accurately around it. It stays in place permanently - after machine stitching, you won’t face problems that ripping out cardstock can cause. If you cut 8.5” x 11” pieces, you can even print the template pages directly onto it. (If you don’t have Décor Bond, use cardstock templates instead.)
INVISIBLE MONOFILAMENT THREAD Option, for joining pieces, machine appliqué, and/or machine quilting.
Again, the complete and newly revised pattern is a free download, here (Version 3b, July 2, 2020). Contact me with any questions or comments at email@example.com.