Saturday, September 15, 2018

A Quilter's Tour of September Vogue

Quilting is many things - psychotherapy, light exercise, friendship - but it is never a way to get rich, thin, fashionable, or chronologically younger.

So I don't have much to relate to in Vogue magazine photos, which celebrate the trendy, sinewy, wealthy, and post-millenial*. But I do enjoy some of the articles, and read them at the gym, while operating cardio machines, in a vain (pun intended) attempt to youthify myself.

In recent weeks, I've been pedaling faster than ever with excitement over the hefty September, 2018 issue. That's because I deciphered its secret message to quilters: Turn your patchwork into pricey fashion!

Most Vogue pages aren't numbered (why?) so I'll just give you a general idea of regions where this message is hidden. About twenty pages in, there's the following row of napping teens* in a cafe, wearing gloriously-embroidered crazy-quilt skirts, jackets, dresses and purses.
As a mother, I can only pray they're also wearing sunscreen. Closer:
How do people so young afford Dior clothing? That's only one of the many enigmas of Vogue. (Also: Who hand-stitched these pieces? Where? How much were they paid?) Vogue never tells. But I found a clearer picture here. And there's a whole page of a model named Bella Hadid wearing them, with equally colorful hair, here.

Next, a coat by a design firm called ETRO appears to incorporate crochet, knitting, metal embellishments, embroidery, furniture tassels, and maybe molas, on the right in this picture:
Closer:
A much clearer photo is here. The coat costs $7020, with free shipping! How many quilters have sold a quilt for $7020? 

Somewhere around page 300, there's a page titled V Life, with a subhead that reads "Flash: Patch Game." The text: "Matchy-matchy style gives way to quirky, offbeat pairings with Bohemian and Western influences." The illustration:
Let's break it down. On the far left, a celebrity named ASAP Rocky, is wearing a coat and pants made from bandanas by a company called ASYM. Separately, bandanas cost about $4 on Amazon, and only $1 each if you buy a dozen on ebay. But sewn together. the shirt is $1550, and the pants are a chill $1390! These facts make me want to change my name to ATHY and start quilting only in bandanas, which are cheaper than batiks. 

The denim jacket in the center/top of the page...
...is worn by the singer Rihanna, and appears to be made of multiple jeans, with the original pockets and belt loops, a Dolce & Gabbana design. I couldn't find this coat online but I did find a small D & G jeans jacket with a scatter of buttons; its front pocket and a back panel are replaced with floral prints, and it's a steal at $1437, which is 40% off, here!

In the lower right of the page, this outfit was sewn together from blue-and-white geometric fabrics, worn by actress Rosario Dawson.
The text says it's made by Studio 189 -  I looked that up and was happy to discover this fashion line is made by artisans and designers in Ghana, working in conjunction with Dawson, supporting people ethically. Read about it here. If high fashion can sustain African textile artists, can it sustain American quilters too?

On page 327, there's an ad for "Alice + Olivia by Stacey Bendet." This clothing appears to be constructed from patches of Indian or Chinese embroidered silk brocade, punctuated by occasional strips of faux leopard fur, instructing quilters that everything goes better with (faux) leopard.
The dress in front is called the "Rapunzel Curved-Hem Patchwork Mini-Dress," at Neiman Marcus where it costs $595. And here's an $800 coat like the one in the middle of the ad.

So how are your FUR piecing skills? I'm guessing quarter-inch seam allowances won't work. The next photo shows a fur coat by designer Isabel Marant with traditional pinwheel quilt blocks pieced in. (Or dyed/painted?) I couldn't find the identical jacket online; but I did find a shearling version. (Same coat inside-out?) Price: $5150.

On the facing page, there's this provocative purse:

The round embellishment appears to be a cross between a bosom and a cantaloupe, tattooed with a spiderweb. A purse containing milk, with a nipple for an infant, would be a fabulous gift for nursing mothers and their non-lactating partners!?

And speaking of hunger, further along, beautiful-but-gaunt twin pop singers Miranda and Elektra Kilbey are wrapped in a red-white-and-blue quilt (coat?) with a silver space-blanket lining. Online I learned that the Kilbeys are 27-years-old feminists who encourage women to go topless with the same frequency and insouciance as men, as part of a campaign called Free the Nipple.
Which certainly explains the bosom-themed purse. (Quilters have been freeing their nipples for years, coming home from work, extracting their bras, and dropping them on the floor, while racing to the sewing machine.) 

Just when you think Vogue must have run out of money-making ideas for quilters, page 628 shows us these $3590 Dior boots! Maybe I can glue some quilts to my old boots?
It's followed by a Chanel bag, with richly hand-embroidered autumnal foliage, but challenging to discern against a similar background:
And then, on page 624, only two pages from the end, under the title "Last Look," there's a bunch of Grandmother's flower garden blocks sewn into long gloves. 
(The gloves are laid across a purple aerial photograph, so they're also hard to see.) Bending hexagons to fit neatly around fingers deserves a big reward. If you buy these for your grandmother, and tell her about the $850 price tag, she will never garden in them.

To summarize, fellow quilters, we are vastly underpricing our work. If we would like a living wage from our art, we must strive to sell it to couture firms and designers. They'll turn our tops and UFOs into jackets, gloves, mini skirts, breast-and-leopard themed wearables; and all together, you, me, Vogue, and the young young young* models - we'll get rich, rich, rich!

*Most current Vogue models weren't even fetuses when I started quilting. But to their credit, the magazine's September issue also includes a very articulate article announcing their new policy to use only elder models - age 18+.

Postscript: Unfortunately, I have no financial affiliation with any of the companies or products mentioned above or below. But some of them might sue me for borrowing their photos.


PS2: Thanks to Wendy of Mission Fitness Center in Alhambra, CA, for granting me permission to swipe their copy of Vogue long enough to write this.


PS3: Buy bandana-print quilt fabric squares here.



22 comments:

  1. well since there is free shipping - did they really put that in there? free shipping on a $7020 outfit? to funny. they should have thrown in a mariners compass block or two, then they could really charge the big bucks - lol! I find couture fashion to be so far out of my realm of understanding that I don't even try to. they sort of look like shabby chic gone to sh__ or bohemian rhapsody gone bananas. quilters couture - yes, that is catchy

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    1. Neiman Marcus carried quite a few of the fashions, and they seemed quite generous with the free shipping! I agree with you, I would want not only free shipping but at the very least a Mariner's Compass block with anything I paid $7,000 for!

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  2. As much as I love fashion and quilting, I wouldn't wear any of those outfits anywhere. People would probably think that I made it and not spent $7,000 on it, not that I would. Fun to look at tho, and thanks for bringing it to our attention. I will share this with my quilting friends.

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    1. Thanks for sharing your thought on this, Norma. I quite like some of these clothes, especially the Dior crazy quilts; however, an outfit made entirely of bandanas seems like something you'd wear on Halloween. I may spend the rest of my life searching for that bosom purse.

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  3. Very entertaining!

    I know some clothing sewists consider leopard a neutral. How fashionable!

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    1. Rebecca, I'm going to quote you from here on in - "Leopard is a neutral!!!"

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  4. Do people actually wear things like this? I have a jeans project - was supposed to be a quilt, but so far, is just a big piece of jeans fabric that could easily become a coat if I could get $7,050 for it.

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    1. Shasta, maybe you could write to Dolce & Gabbana and offer them your big piece of jeans fabric. (I have something similar, pieced denim jeansthat used to be a couch cover). I am sure they will pay us tens of thousands of dollars. Let me know when it happens. Thanks for stopping by!

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  5. OMG Cathy. I am so laughing. I might wear some of those fashions such as the leopard coat but I can imagine when people ask me if I sell my fashions how horrified they would be if I gave them those price tags. Thanks for making my day.

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    1. Maggie, that leopard coat is you. If you launch a Kickstarter campaign to buy it, I'll chip in. But I think the lesson of this issue of Vogue -seriously - is that we are wildly underpricing our art. If only quilters were as effective as fashion designers in convincing people to pay high prices!

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  6. SEW entertaining! Thanks for the fashion review.

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    1. Thanks for stopping by, Sandra! Fashion is my life! (Not.)

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  7. I once took part in a survey that was being done for Prada. They showed me various adverts they were doing for glossy magazines and I had to give my opinion. I found the adverts dull and boring and said that I wouldn't be seen dead in the clothes anyway. I got a free cup of tea and some cake for my pains. I don't think they live in the same world as the rest of us!

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    1. Cake! I like cake! As quilters, we are all too used to being paid in cake, instead of mega-dollars, like our fashion- designing brethren. Thanks, Jenna, for the insights! I hope they poll me!

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  8. Such an amusing and informative post - and the comments - oh I am laughing out loud. - How true what Norma Schlager writes: People would think she made it herself .... Thank your for this report about the magazine Vogue, lovely photos and l love your texts.

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    1. Thanks, Anneliese, I'm so glad you enjoyed the tour!

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  9. I would wear the blue and white jacket today, and did actually make myself a brocade outfit (long skirt and vest) from furnishing ends of rolls (dead cheap) way back in the late sixties/seventies. All of these look like things we wore back then - only we weren't at all pretentious.

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  10. So great Cathy, you had me LOLing at your commentary. I love love love to see the outpourig of patchwork and embroidery! I'd never have known if you hadn't posted it. Thank you.

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  11. Thanks for sharing! Made me smile! I am sure I have a ufo waiting to be a coat now! I need an agent. This self representing stuff isn't working !

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    1. PeggySue, my self-representation has never worked. Your idea of an agent is brilliant - the quilt world needs agents who will buy our piecework and sell it for vast amounts of money to Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, and the like!

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Thank you for commenting!